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That is the feeling one gets in the Old City of Jerusalem.

Just walking through the narrow streets and alleys, never mind the shrines holy to three faiths, one is immersed in history.

It is also prudent to explore during the day, though the views of many of the sites -- when you know how to find them -- are often best at night.

Just inside Jaffa Gate, on the left beyond the Tourist Information Office, is a small enclosure with two graves nearly hidden beneath the trees.

Head to the left to go toward the Christian or Muslim Quarter and the right to reach the Jewish Quarter.

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